Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Semana Santa

This is what I'll be up to this weekend...

Bike riding in the bodegas (wineries) of Mendoza, Argentina

White water rafting...

and celebrating Easter with my mostly Jewish friends.

¡Feliz Pascuas a todos!

(And Mom, can you tell Lamby "Happy 18th Birthday" for me on Sunday? Thanks :)


Sunday, March 28, 2010

Third Apple Only!


There's a popular metaphor for study abroad experience that for some reason, labels the phases of adjustment to a foreign country as the First, Second and Third Apples. First Apple is the initial phase of excitement, adrenaline, and love for the new place. Second Apple is the queasy, not-so-sure phase, where Spanish becomes the ugliest language in the world, all the food tastes disgusting and all the boys are creepy.

The Third Apple is the compromise, the phase where everything seems manageable, though slightly different. Thanks to God, mucho financial support from my parents, god-parents, aunts, grandparents, and my own hard work, I've had the opportunity to travel to 13 countries. Therefore, I truly feel like I've only had Third Apple feelings while I've been here. Hopefully this attitude of compromise and tolerance for all things slightly different can help me support my fellow american-study-abroaders who are in the Second Apple phase and also my fellow Americans who don't always share this attitude of tolerance.

Speaking of America--me and the gang went to AmeriKa, a boliche (club) that recently had its last foam party. Yes, I said foam and I mean bubbly, wet, soapy foam poured on top of the dancing crowd. Check it out:Below is the definition of Argentine hair fashion for teenage boys. I can't express the amount of disappointment we all get when we see an attractive Argentino pass us by, and reveal his rat tail. They come in all shapes and sizes, sometimes braids, dred locks, died different colors, or in this case, just an added extension. All I have to say is ¿POR QUE ARGENTINA, POR QUE?!!!

Here I am in the action.

This is the aftermath. Sylvie and I were eaten by the foam. Needless to say, the Taxi drivers weren't pleased.
I did do other things this weekend, like buy a cute necklace at the Belgrano artesan market and go to church in Belgrano...outside! It was Palm Sunday, so it was really awesome to be somewhat in nature with everyone holding up their palms and praying together. I couldn't make a palm cross--my typical Palm Sunday tradition, because the palms or "ramos" that I bought from the people selling them, was an actually olive branch. Olives are very popular here and automatically come on every type of pizza. I really loved the olive branch, because it was so unique to Argentina!

I can't wait to venture out to yet another beautiful part of this país, with my súper-lindo friends. I hope that I find a beautiful church in Mendoza to celebrate the rest of Semana Santa! Long live the Third Apple mentality!

Friday, March 26, 2010

Grandpa Dreams


I have been having very vivid dreams almost every night for the past couple of weeks. Maybe because school hasn't really started yet, and I'm not very stressed about anything, except whether or not I should to to Mendoza, Argentina--home of Argentine wine--for Easter weekend or not.

One of them had grandpa in it, and when this happens I like to write it down. This is my only real journal while I'm here so here it goes.

I was at Holy Family at church and Monsignor Connelly was giving his homily from a very, very high ambo when the entire Fogliani family came in late. With them came an older man who looked just like my grandpa. I instictually hugged and kissed him on the cheek and he didn't know why. Buddy told me that he was St. Jude, the saint of lost causes and that I shouldn't kiss him on the cheek. After that I woke up.

This is only the second dream I've had with my grandpa in it. I wish there were more. I really don't know what it means. I think its kinda silly that the Fogliani's came in late, and that my grandpa was St. Jude. I don't like that my grandpa didn't recognize me.

The first grandpa dream I had took place in my front yard at a party. He was pretty sick then, and I was cutting up and feeding him pieces of watermelon. That's all, it was that simple. I liked this dream a lot better, because it reminded me of my last 3 days with him in the hospital feeding him cranberry juice on little sponges.

I'm at a really good place with my grandpa-woes, I see him in all the old-Hispanic men around the city all the time. I just wish I could come home and speak spanish with him!

Speaking of Easter: We did decide to go to Mendoza, Argentina for la Semana Santa. So that's where I'll be between 31 de marzo- 4 de abril. Look it up, its supposed to be beautiful!

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Madre Anfitriona

I've recently been struggling with the idea of changing host mothers. Here are the reasons:

1. I eat alone every night.
2. She speaks 70% English to me, 30% Spanish. If I wanted to live with English speakers, I wouldn't have come here!
3. I went up to her oficina where she listens to her music and surfs the web to tell her about the play I saw last week, and she brushed me away as if I was being incredibly annoying.
4. Smoke: in my room, in the bathroom, in the kitchen, in my lungs.

After #3 took place, I was sort of hurt and thought about the option of switching families. Then the following happened.

1. She said how amazed she was that I didn't have a rough transition period, but instead was already so accustomed to Argentina, 6000 millas away from home. In that same moment, she asked me if I was comfortable in the house specifically, and I responded yes, because everything is great in my house, I just want to interact with her more and in a cozier, more casual way!
2. She said she liked my drawing yesterday.
3. She said she likes me because I'm always smiling and "radiant".

As long as the second list continues to grow, I'm staying right where I am. There's good and bad to every host family, one of my friends has to eat tomatoes stuffed with mayonnaise rice= DISGUSTING. Another one of my friends has to leave notes and tell her host mother when she will be getting home every night = unpractical! I think my radically political, glamourous Leo host mother sounds pretty good after hearing these stories!

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Street Sights

This is the interior of the Línea A Subte. Word on the street is that this was the oldest line built in 1913, and the interior is still authentic. No matter if this is true or not, they definitely are older than the others, and the wooden cars make me think I'm going to Hogwarts with lots of Argentines every time I ride them.


This is a view (above) of Puerto Madero the barrio where the Catholic university (UCA) is. Its really pretty and the big white diagonal structure next to the yacht is a bridge that is supposed to synthesize the motion of a couple dancing the tango. I don't really see it, but I like the idea.


Beautiful Plaza de Mayo! This is the center of the Argentine government. The presidenta, Cristina Kirchner, works in the Casa Rosada (below) and there are lots of other important buildings surrounding. (If I take an appropriate tour one day, I'll let you know what they are.)

I finally went to the historic location of Evita's most famous speech, commemorated in the musical & movie which I love so much. (Madonna used the real balcony!) I hate to admit it, but it would be a lie if I didn't, this movie was a factor in my decision to come to Argentina. Even though it portrays B.A. in a somewhat idealized and stereotypical way, I love it. My love for musicals influences me sometimes subconsciously!

Here's one of the figures I drew in my Anatonomía class! I'm so glad I moved up to the 2nd year level because I already feel like I have learned a lot-- just by going to one session! This assignment was to draw a huge curvy, continuous line all over the page, and then use the curves to inspire the movement of the figure. It was so hard because I'm used to drawing with human models, but in class we were forced to explore fine arts improv. Mom- We're just doing gestures, so don't comment on the lack of shading all over the body.

Random discovery: apparently a more German way of spelling Fortner is Pförtner. Also, the Pförtner's of Argentina own a chain of optometry stores.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

"The Rita Influence"

Last week was the first week that any of the classes I was interested in started. I went to Plásitca y Visión, Taller de Relizaciones II, Arte y Diseño, y Historía Escenografica. Three out of those four are at "USAL" or the Universidad del Salvador, and Arte y Diseño is offered at "UCA" or Universidad Catolica de Argentina.

Out of all four, the only one I am set of taking is Plástica y Visión--its an art class in three parts: painting, pencil drawing and figure drawing. No matter what I do to prevent it, "The Rita Influence" has no cure.

My whole life art lessons/drawing/painting was something I was exposed to and taught. Being a "recovering" perfectionist, I never thought I was artistically talented because I couldn't make mine look like my mom's.

Recently, I started going to the figure drawing sessions at Columbia and found out that I really liked it, and that I maybe did have some talent. Over winter break my mom, my brother, my mom's student Kara and I all participated in a 26 hour figure drawing marathon. Guess some of that practice paid off because last Monday at the figure drawing class, the teacher said that I'm too advanced to be in level I, so he's moving me up to level II!

I'm really glad I've been channelling the Rita in me, because I've been able to find my love of art in my own way, and I've been outgoing and confident enough to make such awesome friends here. I've accepted that I can't shake the influence of Rita, and I'm glad.

I'll tell you about the classes I check out next week at "UBA" (Universidad de Buenos Aires!)

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Blog Hollars

These are the blogs I read religiously, if anyone is interested!


R&R was started by two of my best Barnard friends, Rachel and Rachel! They're awesome and hilarious and brilliant. Check it out.


Jennie is my god-sister, a mother of 2 under 2, a wife and so many other beautiful things. Her writing is hilarious, poignant and true all at once!


This is my friend Kara's blog about her experience in Buenos Aires. She's witty and a lot funnier than I am, so if you want to get a different look at our travels here, check this one out!


Freesia is one of my best friends at Barnard and truly changing the world through her work with the organization Invisible Children and her study abroad experience in Rwanda and Uganda. If you want to get an insight on the amazing things she is witnessing in these countries with survivors of the genocides, the communities of Kigali, Rwanda--she describes them thoughtfully and beautifully. Don't forget her name, you'll see it again in the near future saving the world soon.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Villa Gesell

I just got home from a magical weekend at the beach with my 7 MAPS (Mejores Amigos Para Siempre) or BFFS. We got on a 6 hour bus ride at 1:30am Thursday night and arrived to Villa Gesell the next morning. We checked into our hotel, napped and spent a glorious day at the beach.
Sylvie and Niall summarized the weekend perfectly: Sylvie called it the "Self-Esteem boosting weekend", since all everyone could say was how lucky we were to have found each other, how happy we were to be together and how beautiful/hot everyone looked all weekend (esp. you Kara, you pirate nouveau you!). Niall kept saying we were an "Octet" and we were!

I don't remember a time where I have felt more happy to be me, happy to be in my own skin, and happy to be where I was, when I was there. Villa Gesell has been added to my small list of happy-places, amongst my Grandma's house and Helsinki, Finland!

Empanadas on the beach!
Cuddle buddies for life.
Our view from our hotel window. The octet stayed in 2 quadruple rooms, for A$200/night (less than US$60!!!) There was a pool, medialunas in the morning (croissants), and TV's in the rooms.
Here are the 7 girls (Niall took the picture!). I will never forget what an awesome time we all spent together!

Even though I had a truly beautiful weekend with all of these new friends, I do terribly miss all of my readers, some watching from above, some in CA and some in NY. I'm so grateful to the internet so that I can still feel connected to all of you, because without the love and support I feel from all of you everyday, I could never have felt so confident or happy this weekend!

Food, Glorious Food!

One very crucial, important thing that I really haven't written about yet is...FOOD! On one of the first days of orientation, Mario (our program leader) told us that Argentine food is pretty much Italian food with a little Spanish and Middle Eastern twist. Typical Argentine meals: Milanesas (fried steak, chicken, fish) with french fries; Steak with potato/squash purée; Empanadas (that's the Middle Eastern influence); Pasta; and Pizza. The majority of the time that we eat out at a restaurant, that's what we're eating.

Empanadas are amazing. The most common flavors are Cebolla y Queso (Onion and Cheese), Pollo (Chicken), Jamon y Queso (Ham and Cheese), Choclo (Corn), o Neopolitana (Tomato, Basil, Chesse). Below are some amazing Pollo empanadas I ate at a fancy cafe! I'm not sure why they have those spiky things on top...but they were delicious!

Food time at home is usually alone, because my host mother eats at different times than I do, and usually is busy either watching TV, listening to her favorite British pop radio station, or surfing the web. I don't mind much, I take this opportunity to read up on what new adventure I can find in Argentina. I'd say that 4/7 days of the week I eat a different type of quiche with either potatoes or salad to go with it. Sundays are pizza days, and the rest of the week I eat either a veggie burger with potatoes, or a chicken patty. I mostly eat vegetarian at home, which is really odd, especially since the program directors recommended all the vegetarians to start eating meat, since vegetarian lifestyles are so misunderstood here. I'm having the opposite experience...becoming a little more vegetarian than I'm used to! So far, no complaints! Below is a picture of my eating nook:
This is my awesome friend, Sylvie, eating some fabulous gnocci. This dish is on almost every menu and one of my favorites! These were the most amazing gnocci I have ever eaten. It was at a fancy-ish restaurant in Villa Gesell, Argentina.


STEAK. Apparently the Argentine staple, although I have yet to eat some. Niall ordered this "Bistek Mariposa", Butterfly Steak, and we loved the proportion of meat to vegetables. Very Argentine!

The one thing that I miss terribly: Peanut Butter. If anyone comes to Buenos Aires on business, impulse, leisure, for any reason, please bring me some extra chunky, I'm having serious withdrawals. The local grocery store chain is called "Disco" and the incredibly witty and clever Sylvie appointed the phrase PANIC AT THE DISCO for my feeling of pain and sadness upon my realization that peanut butter doesn't exist in Argentina.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

¡Carnaval!

Friday night, 5 marzo, it was Callie's birthday, so we went to a bar and then to a boliche (dance club!) We had a great time but didn't get back until far into the night. The next day my friends were pressuring me to go to Carnaval with them, and I gave in. I spent Saturday morning running around town trying to pick up all the tickets I needed in order to go!

We finally made it all work out and got on the bus around 3:30pm, so we arrived in Gualeguaychú at around 6:30. We chilled at the "beach" by the river for a while, and then ate a really yummy dinner. Carnaval was a huge parade that lasted from about 11pm-4am. In summary, it was 1/2 naked people dancing their butts off in amazingly ornate costumes/accessories.


Niall and I! We've become super good friends...he's a vital part of our group! He's from Boston and goes to U. Mass.
Erika and I get mistaken for each other by the program directors. Can you see why? She's so sweet and awesome. She's from NY and goes to Cornell!
The whole town is simply consumed by Carnaval, and this was at the nice restaurant we ate at. Its obvious that the city shuts down and thrives at the time of Carnaval, so it would be interesting to see what its like when its off season. Its a city of 100,000 people and the biggest one in the province of Paraná, Argentina. Many people say that this Carnaval rivals that of Río de Jainero, maybe someday I'll be able to compare them!

After the parade, we wandered around, ate, and then tried to sleep on the beach. The Argentines were going strong until after we left at 8am! I can't believe they have that much stamina and endurance to stay strong for so long. Maybe I would've been game if I had slept more the night before, but still I felt like the Argentines one-upped me big time. I'm so glad I went, even though the planning and lack of sleep was stressful, because it truly was a unique and once in a lifetime experience!

Here are some of my other close friends at our favorite bar, Acabar, last week.

They have board games and we played Jenga with those giant blocks in front of us! From left: Niall, Grace, Sylvie, Me, Callie, Kara. I'm so happy and proud of myself for being able to be confident enough in myself to put myself out there, and I'm so happy that I have the opportunity to meet all of these sweet, silly and awesome people!

Friday, March 5, 2010

Dream

My friend Rachel started a dream journal, and the other night I had one worth sharing, so here I go.

Apparently my parents and I were planning a huge 21st Birthday party for me this summer (which is not happening by the way), and had asked Elvis Costello to be the live entertainment. I'm pretty sure we all knew that it would never happen, but then he called me!

I remember being in my room, here in Argentina, and hearing his British accent. I said, "Hello Mr. Costello, Its a pleasure talking to you." I think I also told him I was named after his song, and he said that it would be his honor to play at my party. Then my alarm rang.

Ever since I was in Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, I have wished that I could analyze dreams and figure out what they meant. I really think this means I miss my dad, and his love for Declan MacManus!

Monday, March 1, 2010

¡San Telmo!


Our homework this weekend was to go to a barrio and take pictures of textura, tensión, calor (heat), olor (smell), azul (blue), panorama, tiempo (time), sonido (sound), grafiti, and pizarra (chalkboard). It was fun to hang out with a couple people I haven't spent time with in the past, and to explore another barrio.

Here are the best pics.
Tensión:
Olor:

Grafitti: Long live Socialism and Freedom!

Textura: This street performer was not only hot, he also mastered the art of finger-painting.