Los últimos abrazos

The last three days have been jam packed with tourist sites, hugs, goodbyes, and lots of reminiscing. Niall, Kara and Mel left today to go home, back to our "real lives", which means that this porteña life is officially coming to an end!

Above is my favorite picture I took at El Caminito en La Boca. Its a really dangerous area, but we heard that we HAD to see that street with the colored houses, so we took a cab there and back--just to be safe. It turned out to be sort of a let down--just like most hyped-up tourist attractions. It was fun to wander and see a different part of the city that we have lived in for so long.

After La Boca, we went to Plaza de Mayo to see Las Madres de los desaparecidos (Mothers of the disappeared). They are the mothers, and some grandmothers, of the citizens who were unrightfully captured and obviously killed during the dictatorship that ruled between 1976-1983. In many ways Argentina is still in a post-dictadura phase, and the country is still very much hurt by this terribly violent and oppressive rule. These mothers' faces are so sad, and many of them hold the picture of their lost child. Some people (like Niall's host mother) HATES them, even though they were nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize for all their lobbying. Its mainly because many of their sons/daughters could have been criminals and so many people don't see why everyone feels so sorry for them. I'll tell you why--there is NO REASON ever to kill another human being!

The day after was 9 de julio which is Argentina's Independence Day! We went to Tigre for our last hurrah. Above is a beautiful Van Gogh-y pic of the river!

Here is us (minus Sylvie the amazing group photographer) on our last night out. We were toasting all of our favorite, and many of our not-so-favorite memories, being silly, and expressing our love for each other. Mel said it well when she said "I'm really surprised that I like you as much as I like you." We really did get super lucky that we found such beautiful people to spend this adventure with, and I feel so blessed to have all these contacts and life-long relationships!!! This experience would've been so different without them!

And now back to reading and writing...

GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLL

Yesterday I watched my first partida del Copa mundial, probably ever. Unless I was sitting with Grandpa when he was watching one. It was the third game Argentina has played so far, and the third one they won. I didn't watch the others because of class and the fact that one was at 8 in the morning, but I also was sort of nervous that it would remind me too much of my Grandpa.

I've recently been playing this game where I grade the old men I see on the streets according to how much they look like him. I've seen a lot of good noses and ears and slicked-back hairdos, but obviously no one will ever get an A!

Back to the game--the first half I knitted through, because it was boring and nothing happened. The second half was awesome. Messi (the star and captain of the game) was sort of slacking, but he did make this amazing shot that bounced off the pole of the goal. So crazy. Then finally this other guy made a goal and then Palermo (another famous player, and also the name of the ritzy neighborhood of BA) made a second one, when the team's morale was already pretty high. Of course they gave Palermo all the credit and didn't even interview the player who made the 1st goal! Lame!

We went to a bar in San Telmo to watch. We were lucky we got a seat, it was the second bar we went to because the first was packed. In the minutes before the game, the streets were moving at an even faster pace than normal; everyone was rushing to get to there game-watching station. I know that sports are really important to many people in the states, but I have never seen any event that EVERYONE in the country/city/neighborhood gets so excited about.

At church on Sunday the priest made a pretty crazy connection with the word "mesias" that means messiah and Messi the player. I didn't understand all his fast words around the reference, but the connection was made. I'm sure he only blasphemed a little bit.

Sunday its on: MEXICO v. ARGENTINA. I would cheer for Mexico in Grandpa's honor, but my friend said that if I value my life at all, I should not. We have no doubts that I would get attacked probably by the barra bravas (the super intense fans). So cheer for Mexico for me and Grandpa, I'll be here cheering for Messi!

Bicentenario

Above is the McDonalds that marks the corner between the 2 biggest streets, Corrientes y Avenida 9 de julio. When I see the "Mac donal" as they say here, I know to get of the bus when en route to the IFSA office.

Monday night of the Bicentenario festivities, we tried to see the opening of the Teatro Colon, the opera house that's been closed for 3 and a half years, but I think everyone in Buenos Aires had the same idea. The amount of people that came out to these events was astounding. It was like the most crowded subte ever, but it didn't end for blocks. People were literally on top of each other. It was really interesting to see how many people were interested in coming to celebrate their country and see these performances.

I was trying to compare these performances and parades with similar things that we have in the US, like the Rose Parade or the Macy's Thanksgiving day parade. Those are so specific and I guess people do come out for them in crowds. But this felt more unifying, maybe because its the capital of a country and it was celebrating a national holiday. I guess it would've been something like 4th of july in D.C.? I can't really compare it to anything I've ever been to!

Above you can sort of see the Flamenco dancers on the stage. Because of the crowd, and because I'm kind of short, I couldn't see much, but with the vibe of the crowd and standing on my tippy toes, it was worth it!

Tuesday night was the 25 de mayo, which is the actual date of the Bicentenario. The biggest parade took place in between Plaza de Mayo (where the Casa Rosada is, and all the important political buildings) and the obelisco (the center of the city). The parade retold Argentine history, especially the story of the revolution that the 25 de mayo celebrates. There were people dressed in colonial clothing, fake snow to remember the winters and mountains they had to travel during the revolution.

The "Nave de los imigrantes" above, was supposed to represent (I think) immigrants coming to Argentina. This was the most exciting part, because the theatre company, De La Guarda, who is most famous for their shows Villa Villa and Fuerza Bruta, did some performances on the ship. The big sheet of tin-foil fabric around the boat is straight from Fuerza Bruta and it had the women walking sideways running and dancing on it, just like the show. On the top there was a big sail-type thing that also had flying people walking on the sides. The next day my theatre professor commented on how this part of the parade combined different genres of theatre and performance by including things from different points of history. I loved that I went to the parade and saw what my teacher was talking about! I felt cultured and realized that I love my theatre theory class more and more each day! Too bad the midterm is ruining that love...

People were everywhere and sitting on top of everything.

Awesome view of the obelisco!

Here, many argentines stop to watch the parade on TVs in the window of an electronics store. Little did they know the actual parade was taking place about 3 blocks away. I guess its always a better view on TV, but it was just hilarious to see people stopped and watching when the real thing was so close.This one's for you mom. Me and the obelisco!

Tierra Santa

We finally made it to Tierra Santa. It one of the only religious theme parks in the world. There are probably 40 different statues of Jesus, most with some type of animatronic movements. There are 4 shows: Creation, The Last Supper, The Nativity, and The Resurrection--all equipped with booming narration, laser shows and smoke machines.

Callie, Niall and Kara blended in very well in these fancy get-ups.

Just like Disneyland! The workers are all dressed up like Roman soldiers, monks or scarved women.

Tierra Santa with its fake palm trees and the real city of BA in the background.

The 18 meter Jesus with many animatronic movements who rose from the mountain during the Resurrection.

Us in the Creation scene/Garden of Eden and Adam.

The Nativity Scene.

Us modeling by the Rio de la Plata.

When we first got there I was worried that the park could be offensive or making fun of Jesus, but throughout the day I realized that the purpose of this place is probably to educate about the stories of Jesus. The performance aspect of the place was incredible. Everything was decorated and set back around the time of Jesus even down to the trash cans. There were some historically inaccurate things, such as people of that time praying at the model of the Wailing Wall, and there were memorials for Martin Luther and Gandhi--all didn't fit into the supposed "model of the Holy Land".

When we arrived the place was close to deserted at 3pm, but then the park slowly filled with old people admiring the chapel and the shows, people our age giggling at the weirdness of it all, families, and children with a priest probably on a field trip. I can understand that it serves as a place to teach the stories of Jesus. I just can't imagine someone getting the idea in their head to create a model of Jerusalem and put animatronic Jesus's all around the park telling his story.

Obvi it wasn't weird for me to see images of Jesus, but in this context--a place that sort of felt like Disneyland and a church at the same time, with restaurants, kids, souvenirs and fake statues of random people all over. Sin embargo, I'm glad I went, and think this place is just an interesting phenomenon. If you ever go to BA, check it out!

Argentine Observations...

Dog poop. I'm starting to not like the dog poop that lines every single street of Buenos Aires. You're not only trying to avoid the fresh dumps, but the skids of previously stepped in ones as well. The smell and the amazing quantity of dogs that all poop on the street is becoming somewhat shocking.

Fashion update: I can't make my mind up about the fashion of low crotch jeans/pants. Men, women, children all wear them, and with the right bod, shoes and accessories many pull them off quite well. Some people in my program have bought them, and for some reason they don't quite work on North Americans (gotta remember to say norte when referring to americans because everyone here is american too--south american!) Check this out...would you wear these?

Speaking of hot Argentine bods--we've all been incredibly interested in discovering their secret to staying to crazy skinny and beautiful at all ages. We have learned the hard way that the secret is NOT in alfajores--these chocolate covered cookies with DDL (Dulce de Leche) in them that sort of rock my world--to our dismay. BUT...Niall learned that the drug in Mate, which is called "Mateina" instead of "cafeina", is an appetite suppressor. This weekend we are going to buy Mate gourds, yerba and bombillas (the special straw--see below) to start reaping the benefits of this Argentine ritual.

Knitting stores! I finally went to the city's "knitter's row" that is made up of about 10 huge knitting stores. They all have an incredible amount of inventory and were packed on a Thursday morning. Many of them had those number dispensers so that people could get help from an employee. Another thing that shocked me was that most of the employees were men! They were all incredibly attentive and knew everything. I bought 5 small balls of yarn for A$1.90 each which is less that 50 cents a pop. I also bought a larger skein to make myself a little purse and get my fingers moving in a productive way again, for A$15 = around 4 dollars. Sooo I bought 6 skeins of yarn for around 5 or 6 dollars. INCREDIBLE. I'm so excited to get really into my new project after my midterm!

Tomorrow we're going to buy tickets to visit El Calafate in the south of Argentina in the region of Patagonia! There is a large national park with glaciers and adventures to be had (see below). I figured, why not go to Patagonia and see the glaciers in one of the southern most parts of the world? I'm here right???

Aventura en Tigre

And again I have another awesome reason to be so glad I chose the study abroad program I chose. Last week we were told that there were 14 spots for an "Urban biking" day in Tigre (the natural Venice of Argentina!). I don't have class on Fridays (or Thursdays :) so Niall and I decided to go!

This is the train station Retiro:

This is a park we stopped at to drink mate (the Argentine social drink, their version of tea), eat alphajores (these layered cookie things people are obsessed with) and learn a little about the city we've lived in for 2.5 months now. It was beautiful and absolutely pleasant.

When I complain or realize how dirty BA is with dog poop and trash on the streets, I need to remember all the beautiful places in Argentina I have been to, and really what a beautiful país it is.

We seriously could not have been luckier with the weather today! It was crazy beautiful! This paseo reminded me of South Pas a bit...

Me and my best friend in Argentina with the city in the background!

We also kayaked through the water city of Tigre which was majestically beautiful. I wish I was at the point in my life to retire and just buy a house on the river and kayak myself to town whenever I choose. We are definitely going to come back to Tigre to walk around more and chill there for more time.

Interesting note on Machismo:

When we were mounting our kayaks, the directors of the group we were with told us that we should have at least one varón (man) in each kayak. That was impossible because there was a vast majority of women. Then I got to thinking, why is that a rule? I asked and the director said "Es mejor" (its better.) And then I continued asking and he just laughed and said that they are a machista society. Punto. The end. He did chuckle at my continued questioning, but just stated the fact as it is.

Yesterday in my UBA class my teacher used the verb "femenizar" (i guess it means to feminize) as a verb meaning "to lessen in social status" or "to become inferior". This professor usually is very respectful and awesome--so this usage surprised me!

Argentina may have its down falls, but its sure beautiful!

Esperando a Godot y 2nd Apple Momentitos

Finalmente I feel like I have a set schedule! Two of my classes are at UBA--the public (yes that means free to Argentines, but not to spoiled Americans THANKS MOM AND DAD) university that takes me one hour to get to by bus and by subte. The building I go to 3 times a week is covered by posters, graffiti, advertisements--you name it. It looks like that was the theme for the decor because literally there isn't a square inch of wall not covered. It gives me the sense that the students really own they're school and that its a location for not only traditional learning, but passionately questioning current life and politics as well. I'm gonna try to casually take a picture tomorrow to show you!

Interesting theatre experience! In one of my UBA seminario about the works of Samuel Beckett, we're first discussing Waiting for Godot--his most popular play. I saw a production recently, per the profesora's request, that didn't follow all the traditions of this well-known script. The play has 5, arguably 6 male characters that are usually portrayed in similar costumes, with similar mannerisms, etc. This production (TEATRO ANFITRION, DIRIGIDA POR BERTA GOLDENBERG) chose to cast multiple actors to play the 2 principal characters and also women to occupy the majority of the roles. The night I went an inspector from the "Beckett Estate" (who knows what that means?) to judge the loyalty of the production. The text was completely respected--but I'm guessing and my professor (one of the most respected Beckett scholars in Latinoamerica if not in the world) things that because of the unusual casting they decided to shut the production down.

Its really great to be able to do so much of what I love all at once: travel, see plays, study theatre, art class, and hang out with great people. I loved being witness to this interesting theatre occurrence as well!

It may seem that I'm just the perfect traveller with no problems who never misses home. Not the case. Here are things I will say when I get home (*** this list is NOTHING compared to the one that my friend Freesia should write when she gets home from Uganda this summer. See freesiastravelsabroad.blogspot.com )

• There is toilet paper in every stall? What's a toilet seat cover?
• YOU DON'T HAVE TO PAY FOR THE WATER??!!!
• All the taxis are legit? Not only the ones that say Radio Taxi?
• I don't have to go to 5 different bookstores and fotocopiadoras every day to find my readings for class? I can really just buy this one textbook?
• Clothes come in more than "one size fits all"?
• You have EVERYTHING on the menu? Really? I can order anything I want?!!!
• What's a taco? And what are those delicious brown mushy things next to them?
• I also just plain miss the easiness of using cash in los EEUU. Here if you have a 100 peso bill (=to más o menos U$S 27) you have to beg to get change--even at restaurants, in taxis and at the supermarket. NO ONE ever has change. Don't even ask about monedas (coins for the colectivos).

I'm happy to welcome these crazy differences to keep reminding me that I'm not home and that I'm in the one and only Argentina!

Homework Session

Niall and I went to the park by the famous cemetery (2 blocks away from my house) to do homework. Here is the view of the park:

Here is the Hotel Alvear (1 block away from my house) that has a store called ARITA. So silly that I have a Rita too!

Dad-is this the same type of tree as the one at Holy Family? I think it is because those little mini red mushroom looking thingys fall from it. There are tons of these huge amazing trees in the park--and I love that no one grooms them, they are left to grow freely!

This is the type of homework I get excited for. While Niall read the book we have to read for our mandatory Spanish class, I drew his hand.

Unfortunately the drawing below isn't mine, but I bought a post card of it. This artist (a local selling her goods at the weekly art fair) gave me a little deal (cause I bought 3) and a kiss goodbye! Her art was so beautiful and her pencil work very soft and delicate. I loved what she did with the watercolor in the back and the addition of some color to the traditional black and white drawings! Don't worry Mom and Dad--I'll give you one to add to the Wall of Fame in the kitchen.

Still picking my classes. I'm hesitant to pick hard ones because they're in Spanish! Oh well, that's what I'm here for...to challenge myself! We'll see how it goes...

Third Apple Only!

There's a popular metaphor for study abroad experience that for some reason, labels the phases of adjustment to a foreign country as the First, Second and Third Apples. First Apple is the initial phase of excitement, adrenaline, and love for the new place. Second Apple is the queasy, not-so-sure phase, where Spanish becomes the ugliest language in the world, all the food tastes disgusting and all the boys are creepy.

The Third Apple is the compromise, the phase where everything seems manageable, though slightly different. Thanks to God, mucho financial support from my parents, god-parents, aunts, grandparents, and my own hard work, I've had the opportunity to travel to 13 countries. Therefore, I truly feel like I've only had Third Apple feelings while I've been here. Hopefully this attitude of compromise and tolerance for all things slightly different can help me support my fellow american-study-abroaders who are in the Second Apple phase and also my fellow Americans who don't always share this attitude of tolerance.

Speaking of America--me and the gang went to AmeriKa, a boliche (club) that recently had its last foam party. Yes, I said foam and I mean bubbly, wet, soapy foam poured on top of the dancing crowd. Check it out:Below is the definition of Argentine hair fashion for teenage boys. I can't express the amount of disappointment we all get when we see an attractive Argentino pass us by, and reveal his rat tail. They come in all shapes and sizes, sometimes braids, dred locks, died different colors, or in this case, just an added extension. All I have to say is ¿POR QUE ARGENTINA, POR QUE?!!!

Here I am in the action.

This is the aftermath. Sylvie and I were eaten by the foam. Needless to say, the Taxi drivers weren't pleased.

I did do other things this weekend, like buy a cute necklace at the Belgrano artesan market and go to church in Belgrano...outside! It was Palm Sunday, so it was really awesome to be somewhat in nature with everyone holding up their palms and praying together. I couldn't make a palm cross--my typical Palm Sunday tradition, because the palms or "ramos" that I bought from the people selling them, was an actually olive branch. Olives are very popular here and automatically come on every type of pizza. I really loved the olive branch, because it was so unique to Argentina!

I can't wait to venture out to yet another beautiful part of this país, with my súper-lindo friends. I hope that I find a beautiful church in Mendoza to celebrate the rest of Semana Santa! Long live the Third Apple mentality!

Street Sights

This is the interior of the Línea A Subte. Word on the street is that this was the oldest line built in 1913, and the interior is still authentic. No matter if this is true or not, they definitely are older than the others, and the wooden cars make me think I'm going to Hogwarts with lots of Argentines every time I ride them.

This is a view (above) of Puerto Madero the barrio where the Catholic university (UCA) is. Its really pretty and the big white diagonal structure next to the yacht is a bridge that is supposed to synthesize the motion of a couple dancing the tango. I don't really see it, but I like the idea.

Beautiful Plaza de Mayo! This is the center of the Argentine government. The presidenta, Cristina Kirchner, works in the Casa Rosada (below) and there are lots of other important buildings surrounding. (If I take an appropriate tour one day, I'll let you know what they are.)

I finally went to the historic location of Evita's most famous speech, commemorated in the musical & movie which I love so much. (Madonna used the real balcony!) I hate to admit it, but it would be a lie if I didn't, this movie was a factor in my decision to come to Argentina. Even though it portrays B.A. in a somewhat idealized and stereotypical way, I love it. My love for musicals influences me sometimes subconsciously!

Here's one of the figures I drew in my Anatonomía class! I'm so glad I moved up to the 2nd year level because I already feel like I have learned a lot-- just by going to one session! This assignment was to draw a huge curvy, continuous line all over the page, and then use the curves to inspire the movement of the figure. It was so hard because I'm used to drawing with human models, but in class we were forced to explore fine arts improv. Mom- We're just doing gestures, so don't comment on the lack of shading all over the body.

Random discovery: apparently a more German way of spelling Fortner is Pförtner. Also, the Pförtner's of Argentina own a chain of optometry stores.

Villa Gesell

I just got home from a magical weekend at the beach with my 7 MAPS (Mejores Amigos Para Siempre) or BFFS. We got on a 6 hour bus ride at 1:30am Thursday night and arrived to Villa Gesell the next morning. We checked into our hotel, napped and spent a glorious day at the beach.

Sylvie and Niall summarized the weekend perfectly: Sylvie called it the "Self-Esteem boosting weekend", since all everyone could say was how lucky we were to have found each other, how happy we were to be together and how beautiful/hot everyone looked all weekend (esp. you Kara, you pirate nouveau you!). Niall kept saying we were an "Octet" and we were!

I don't remember a time where I have felt more happy to be me, happy to be in my own skin, and happy to be where I was, when I was there. Villa Gesell has been added to my small list of happy-places, amongst my Grandma's house and Helsinki, Finland!

Empanadas on the beach!

Cuddle buddies for life.

Our view from our hotel window. The octet stayed in 2 quadruple rooms, for A$200/night (less than US$60!!!) There was a pool, medialunas in the morning (croissants), and TV's in the rooms.
Here are the 7 girls (Niall took the picture!). I will never forget what an awesome time we all spent together!

Even though I had a truly beautiful weekend with all of these new friends, I do terribly miss all of my readers, some watching from above, some in CA and some in NY. I'm so grateful to the internet so that I can still feel connected to all of you, because without the love and support I feel from all of you everyday, I could never have felt so confident or happy this weekend!

Food, Glorious Food!

One very crucial, important thing that I really haven't written about yet is...FOOD! On one of the first days of orientation, Mario (our program leader) told us that Argentine food is pretty much Italian food with a little Spanish and Middle Eastern twist. Typical Argentine meals: Milanesas (fried steak, chicken, fish) with french fries; Steak with potato/squash purée; Empanadas (that's the Middle Eastern influence); Pasta; and Pizza. The majority of the time that we eat out at a restaurant, that's what we're eating.

Empanadas are amazing. The most common flavors are Cebolla y Queso (Onion and Cheese), Pollo (Chicken), Jamon y Queso (Ham and Cheese), Choclo (Corn), o Neopolitana (Tomato, Basil, Chesse). Below are some amazing Pollo empanadas I ate at a fancy cafe! I'm not sure why they have those spiky things on top...but they were delicious!

Food time at home is usually alone, because my host mother eats at different times than I do, and usually is busy either watching TV, listening to her favorite British pop radio station, or surfing the web. I don't mind much, I take this opportunity to read up on what new adventure I can find in Argentina. I'd say that 4/7 days of the week I eat a different type of quiche with either potatoes or salad to go with it. Sundays are pizza days, and the rest of the week I eat either a veggie burger with potatoes, or a chicken patty. I mostly eat vegetarian at home, which is really odd, especially since the program directors recommended all the vegetarians to start eating meat, since vegetarian lifestyles are so misunderstood here. I'm having the opposite experience...becoming a little more vegetarian than I'm used to! So far, no complaints! Below is a picture of my eating nook:
This is my awesome friend, Sylvie, eating some fabulous gnocci. This dish is on almost every menu and one of my favorites! These were the most amazing gnocci I have ever eaten. It was at a fancy-ish restaurant in Villa Gesell, Argentina.

STEAK. Apparently the Argentine staple, although I have yet to eat some. Niall ordered this "Bistek Mariposa", Butterfly Steak, and we loved the proportion of meat to vegetables. Very Argentine!

The one thing that I miss terribly: Peanut Butter. If anyone comes to Buenos Aires on business, impulse, leisure, for any reason, please bring me some extra chunky, I'm having serious withdrawals. The local grocery store chain is called "Disco" and the incredibly witty and clever Sylvie appointed the phrase PANIC AT THE DISCO for my feeling of pain and sadness upon my realization that peanut butter doesn't exist in Argentina.